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Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
Barn fresh find.
The kickstand was very badly worn and there was a deep gouge in the frame. We built them both up with weld and shaped them using no body filler.
After carefully removing several layers of paint we found the original Pepper Red over Red Oxide primer applied at Milwaukee in Sept 1953.
After carefully removing several layers of paint we found the original Pepper Red over Red Oxide primer applied at Milwaukee in Sept 1953.
A pile of sandblasted badly pitted parts ready for the repair process.
A pile of sandblasted badly pitted parts ready for the repair process.
These parts ready for their first application of zinc primer and urethane surfacer.
More parts ready.
Typical outer primary cover, previously chromed, now badly pitted, bent on the face, and caved in on th rear bell.
We mask off any area that should not have primer or paint, it's important to protect the motor mounts to keep the engine from constantly working on a painted surface.
Numerous parts primed.
Second application of urethane primer.
After the second coat of urethane, its time for brilliant black, also a urethane finish.
Another shot of the frame.
Primary cover painted.
Oil Tank before being decaled.
Oil Tank done inside and out.
Primary cover inside and out. The rear bell was metal worked requiring only a skim coat of filler.
Steering head cups with new raceways, after they were returned from the cad platers.
What the motor mounts should look like.
Inside rear fender flap, this reinforcement was rotted and forced swelling on the outside of the tip. It would have gone through within a year.
I made plugs for the saddlebag holes, butt welded and ground flush, this retains the shape of the fender without bulges.
After glass beading the rusty area (glass does not create holes in existing steel, sand does) holes in the bottom for the incorrect fender tip welded and relocated.
Leading edge of front fender left side tears welded. Note the opposite side missing the corner.
Lots of golfball sized stretches. I shrink all of these so you don't have an inward dent where you had an outward dent.
More stretching in the rear worked out.
More hammer and dolley work on the left front, the missing edge of the fender replaced. The fender is ready for final sand blast and filler work.
Another picture of the fender, both sides had substantial stretching all repaired with a skim coat of filler.
Inside front fender with the replacemant patch, butt welded.
Front in shape how it should be.
A little filler on the front inside. Note how straight the sides are.
Another shot of the same fender, you can tell there is only a skim coat of filler by all the bare metal in the middle of areas.
Skim coat of filler on the outside. this whole fender was pappered with small and big dents and numerous tears, not visible until it was blasted clean.
Gas Tanks numerous small dents both tanks, but overall great shape.
Mouse trap spring streached so I can get paint on the entire spring.
Rear fender Note skim coat of filler inside of fender to keep the repair invisible.
Outside fender filler in a few spots.
More on the rear fender.
Rear fender in urethane primer surfacer.
Front fender with a guide coat wich is the charcoal fog you see, all parts receive this before the finish coat of primer surfacer. it will reveal any imperfections that my hands or eyes missed.
Ready for final coat of primer.
Inside of rear eady for final prime.
Final coat of primer .
Final prime rear fender.
Glacier Blue 1954 this is a stunning color combitation, I've never seen it properly done before.
Oil tank sanded with 1200 grit paper, the decal is mounted, it will sit for a day and be cleared over.
Front and Rear fenders painted Daytona Ivory on the outside.
Rear fender buffed and assembled. We straightened the stainless trim on either side of the taillight and also straightened the -48 rear fender tip and had it re-chromed
We also installed the screws in the top of the fender to be sure the slots were in line and no damage was done by the lock washers to the paint we also shim the fender tip mouldings to avoid damage to the paint.
Another picture of the outside of the fender.
Inside of the fender all welds ground down and dents given one coat of filler and 2 coats of primer, then painted.
Front fender assembled with the golden anniversary medallion installed. We had to make a patern from a 1954 fender to properly locate the holes for this medallion. it required shiming to avoid damaging the paint as did the other mouldings.
This is what Glacier Blue and Daytona Ivory look like together.
The decal is permanently protected with clearcoat.
John Pierce Colorwrite - Paint for and how to paint antique and vintage motorcycle restorations. Original Factory colors, modern quality. DuPont single stage and base/clear paints. Every known Harley color before 1970. Questions, current pricing, Call days between 9:00 AM and 8:00 PM Eastern Standard Time.
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